Last Friday night marked one week since we touched down in Hong
Kong. What a week it's been. As I mulled over the past week, I
tried thinking of a way of describing things more than some quick-witted
postings on Facebook. I mentioned it to
Shelley and she told me that she has blog postings of the whole week. I guess in the haze of figuring out how to
open a bank account, buy rice milk and find transportation to work, there are
just some things that we didn’t discuss.
As I reflect on the last week, I think I convinced myself in the
time leading up to the move that the culture shock wouldn't be THAT extreme.
After all, most everyone speaks English and with all the Westerners here
it should be just be like living in an exotic NYC. I am naivete incarnate.
Our temporary flat is a VERY small three-bedroom furnished
apartment on the 31st floor (we are happy to have a kitchen, but
literally only one person can fit in there at once). It has a nice view
overlooking the harbor teeming with boats, barges, junks, etc. It's in a
district called Kennedy Town. It has some expats, but definitely
predominantly Chinese.
As previously described, our first bold venture was to buy some
groceries (I know, an aggressive idea). There isn't exactly a Price
Chopper near by and we learned that a grocery store is more of a Western
concept; the locals do their shopping in local street markets and buy for a day
at a time – think of rows and rows of booths with people selling produce, meat,
etc. (A quick note about the meat: It appears to be butchered on
the spot and they just display the raw meat exposed in the air. I suppose
that's fine, I'm just not at a point where that works for me.) Alas, they
do have a couple of grocery store chains so that's where we headed. Think
small. Small packages. Small selections. Small baskets.
BIG prices. Dairy products just aren't popular here. Milk and
cheeses are pricey. Forget buying gold...I'm putting my money on ice
cream futures. Oh, and right there next to the pork chops are chickens'
feet packaged and labeled with a 'best if used by date' just like it's no big
deal.
Getting around is OK, you just have to be deliberate about it.
The taxis are inexpensive, but their English isn't reliable. And
when you get a cabbie that doesn't speak English it does no good to write out
the address for them because if it's not in Chinese characters it's no help
(showing a map with English and Chinese is the most effective). Shelley
is doing a better job than me studying the bus/tram maps. We all got
Octopus cards, a sort of prepaid debit card that allows you to pay for public
transportation. In theory, we are fully mobile.
The kids seem to like things OK. Our flat is so small,
they are incentivized to get out and explore. During my first week in the
office, they've been to the Big Buddha (not the official name of the temple,
but the statue of Buddha is big, like Statue of Liberty big), the beach, the
Peak, etc. JP is the most resistant to the time zone change. He
just falls asleep at 2:00 in the afternoon; then wakes up in the middle of the
night.
To say it is hot and humid is a gross understatement. My
first day of work, I ended up taking a rather circuitous route to the office
from the bus stop - fine, I got lost - and by the time I arrived, it looked
like I jogged to the office. My suit was soaked...next task is to locate
dry cleaning.
We are searching for a more permanent flat. To that end,
we opened a bank account (I may call Mit Romney’s accountants and find out what
the regulatory implication’s of that are – wait, that’s my employer!). Just today, we received our Hong Kong ATM
card! The international ATM charges from
our US accounts have been a killer so I’m more than a little excited. But
more importantly, Shelley bought a coffee maker this week and Starbucks coffee
beans (my version of a security blanket).
Our language studies are progressing nicely – that is learning
British English (e.g., elevator=lift, bathroom=washroom, etc.). Whenever talking to someone who is Chinese, I
carefully listen to make sure I understand what is said. I just realized that when I listen to someone
speaking English, I find myself listening just as closely. As silly as it sounds, the lexicon and accent
is different enough that feel that I’m always straining to understand. I feel like a dolt having to say, ‘I don’t
understand that right theeere. Can you speak slower and use more American
words?!?’. That said, we are very
cognizant of the fact that we are the foreigners so we really are trying to
figure it out rather than trying to make millions of Hong Kongers convert to
our way of thinking. In fact, we are
finding that they are very forgiving of our strange and brutish ways.
Speaking of adapting, we have an appointment next week to obtain
Hong Kong ID cards. With HK ID cards, I hear amazing doors are opened to
us such as being able to travel to nearby Asian countries and getting a library
card.
On to week two…more sensory overload. Hopefully we will learn one or two more
things that will help us adapt.
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